Or, Sony Vegas 101
Over the last few weeks a lot of my spare time has been going into learning how to edit videos – mostly of rocket launches and tests. Video is a great medium for capturing and carefully reviewing fast-moving objects – a standard (NTSC) camcorder captures 60 fields (half-frames, sort of) each second, which gives you a lot of time resolution to see what is going on.
For the last dozen years or so, ever since video editing became reasonably practical on a PC, I’ve periodically attempted to learn how to edit video, but it always seemed impossibly complex. This was despite the fact that I have a pretty good technical background in video – I sat on the the committee that developed the H.264 standard. (Hi Gary, Hi Thomas. I don’t miss your meetings at all.)
But I’ve finally managed it, and it turned out to be much less bad than it seemed (as usual). I’ll try to pass along the key tricks to getting it working.
Caveat: My focus has been on editing digital video from a consumer-type HD camcorder (a Canon HF100), for ultimate viewing on a computer (a Windows box). So I’m assuming you have already copied the .MTS files of your video clips from the SD card and have them to start with.
I’ll start with the Executive Summary (applicable to rocketry-type videos), then explain:
- Camcorder setup (Canon HF100 or similar):
- Use a gun sight as a viewfinder
- Shortest possible shutter speed (1/2000 second is good)
- Manually focus at infinity (turn off autofocus)
- Turn on image stabilization
- Set highest possible bit rate
- Record at 60i
- Get far away (> 100′)
- Video editing – use Sony Vegas
- Project settings
- 1920×1080
- 59.94 frames/second
- Progressive scan
- Deinterlace by interpolation
- 32-bit floating point (video levels)
- UNCHECK “Adjust source media”
- Preview rendering quality: Set to Good (auto) or Best
- Anything less than Good won’t de-interlace (on preview)
- Add Sony Color Corrector
- Gain = ((17+255)/255) = 1.06666667
- Offset = -17
- Options>GridSpacing>Frames
- Options>Quantize to Frames
- Output: Render As…
- Audio: Default stereo at 44.1 kHz
- MainConcepts AVCHD (H.264):
- 1920×1080 (do not resample)
- Progressive scan
- Best
- Main profile
- 2-pass VBR (for quality)
- Use CPU only (only if you get errors with the GPU)
- 4 Mbps minimum; 10 to 14 Mbps is better
ABOUT VIDEO
Just like Thomas Edison’s motion picture film, video is a series of still pictures that are captured and shown in quick succession, to create the illusion of smooth motion. When you’re going to carefully analyze an event after the fact, it can be really helpful to look at those still pictures one at a time, or in slow-motion. You can easily measure the duration and timing of events by counting frames (pictures), because the frames are taken at fixed intervals of time.
In NTSC countries (USA, Canada, Japan), the standard video format is 30 frames (pictures)/second, in the rest of the world it’s 25 frames/second (PAL and SECAM standards). Since I’m in the USA I’m going to use the 30 frames/second number (adjust accordingly if that doesn’t fit where you live).
So, for example, if frame 30 shows an event starting, and frame 36 shows it ending, you know the event was 6 frame intervals long. That’s 6/30ths of a second (0.2 seconds).
Only…it’s not really 30 frames/second, it’s actually (30 * 1000/1001) frames/second, which is a tiny bit more than 29.97 frames/second. The reason for that is related to the transition from black-and-white to color broadcasting in the 1950s, the details of which are irrelevant today. Just accept it – when people say “30 Hz” in video, they mean 30 * 1000/1001 Hz. (They also mean that if they say “29.97 Hz”, which is a lot closer to the exact value, but not quite there.)
Sometimes you’ll hear about “progressive” video, often abbreviated to “p” as in “720p” and “1080p”. Progressive video is what you’d expect video to be – a simple series of still pictures captured and shown one after another, like frames of a movie film.
Other times you’ll hear about “interlaced” video (as in “1080i”). That…I’ll get to.
VIDEO CAPTURE WITH THE CAMCORDER
I’ve been using a Canon HF100 consumer-level HD camcorder. It’s pretty good. My only complaints are that it has a mild rolling shutter problem (not nearly as bad as my DSLR’s video mode), and a clunky UI for manual control. The newer models are probably better.
Viewfinder – use a gun sight
The biggest problem I’ve had with it is tracking fast-moving rockets with the non-existent viewfinder. I don’t count the LCD screen as a viewfinder – because it’s 4 inches from your nose, your eyes can’t focus on the screen and the distant rocket at the same time. And if you look at the LCD screen, then the moment the rocket (or whatever) goes off the screen, you have no idea what direction to go to find it. This is a serious problem when you’re zoomed in a long way, as your field of view is small.
After trying several alternatives (“sports finders”, cardboard tubes, optics), the best solution was to attach a gun sight to the camcorder. It has no magnification, just projects a target into your field of view. It has little set-screws for adjusting it, so you tweak these until the target points at the exact middle of the picture when the camera is zoomed in all the way. That way, as long as you keep the target on what you’re trying to shoot, it’ll be in the picture. The one I used cost about $45; I attached it with cable ties, a block of wood, some Blu-tack (under the wood), and a strip of scrap metal.

Canon HF100 camcorder with gun sight viewfinder. The masking tape is to prevent my face from hitting the “record” button.
Setting up the camcorder
The camcorder has dozens of things you can set. These are the ones that matter for videos of fast-moving things like rockets:
Shutter speed – set to 1/2000 second (or whatever is the fastest it’ll go)
The less time the shutter is open, the less motion blur you’ll get in each picture. As long as you’re shooting in daylight, there will still be enough light – the camera will open up the aperture and/or crank up the gain to compensate. Don’t set the shutter to “auto”; it’ll be much too slow to freeze fast motion and you’ll get blur. (“Auto” is fine for videos of your kids.)
Use manual focus
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